My diary says this was a perfect day 🙂

The hotel owner gave us a lift back up to Passo Della Futa, he had also booked the Rifugio for tonight too so we got off to a great start and had nothing to worry about apart from enjoying the walk.

It was a long walk today but so enjoyable as we were often out the tree’s walking along a nice mountain ridge.

We stopped at Montepiano had coffee and lunch, stocked up with some supplies from a nice bread shop and we did notice that the hotel Roma, recommended in the book was closed and up for sale. Then we set off on the 2nd stage of this 20 miler

At Tabernacolo there was a huge shrine cum chapel that some thoughtful soul had fitted out with armchairs so weary walkers could rest there legs !  they were much needed, because as usual it was a relentless up and down day.

Finally we arrived at Rifugio Pacini to find our French friends here too, they made me feel real good by saying I had done well as a very tough day 🙂

Rifugio Pacini

Dorm rooms, no hot water and a nice if basic meal enjoyed with our french friends and as you can see after a day out drying in the sun Geoff’s camera is now working again 🙂

This morning we decided to wait around for the camera shop to open,then Geoff could get a new camera card and hopefully his camera would work again, but alas the card didn’t work and we then missed the bus back up to the pass.

The option was a 3 hour wait for another bus or 30 euro for a taxi, as time was getting on and it was an estimated 6 hour walking day, we begrudgingly paid for a taxi, but at least tonights hotel was booked.

Although the book describes todays walk as taxing in places we found it a very nice days walk, we even found a nice freshly cut meadow with a bench to eat our lunch at while the thunder stayed in the distance.

Arriving at della Futa after 4 hours of walking and as usual the Hotel at della Futa was open for beer but no rooms,only at week-ends! We took a look around the WW2 cemetery where over 30,000 German soldiers are laid to rest,which we found kind of strange.

Then it was another mile or so down the road to Traversa and hotel lolanda, where we had a warm welcome with beer and nibbles (which was unusual ).

After we had been there 20 mins or so 4 other English walkers turned up, they were walking from Bologna to Florence using a company called InnTravel so a pleasant evening was spent chatting about walking 🙂

After a good 9 hours sleep in the walkers refuge we returned the keys to the village shop, enjoyed coffee and brioche for breakfast then set off on a short days walk, a short day due to accommodation.

Nice brioche here!

An enjoyable steep start to the day, enjoyable as it was not in the tree’s, but it soon started to rain and became misty so when we did find the view points there was nothing to see.

where are the views??

Nice wide easy walking track to Passo del Giogo , where we found the hotel shut , most annoyingly the owners were there but as in most cases, at this time of year, only want to open at weekends 🙁

So we caught the bus down into Scarperia, found a hotel, dried out our boots and had a restful afternoon.

Geoff’s Camera stopped working today we think its due to getting damp so that needs drying out too 🙁

Last night at Albergo Agnoletti we had the most wonderful homemade Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli,covered in a mushroom sauce,I do not like my pasta al dente and I am glad to say no one seems to serve pasta this way 🙂

Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli

Thankfully we had a lift back up to the pass so the day started well, amazingly the motorcyclist’s were already gathering at 9am.

The weather soon became dull and overcast leading to a day of rain with muddy paths and never ending trees. I had never realised that constant walking in trees with no views could be quite depressing.

We bumped into our french friends again today who had stopped walking early due to the rain and having found a wooden hut to shelter in. A couple of Italian walkers stopped by too, after we set off on our way again annoyingly we came across lots of tree branches pulled over the paths to stop the trial / mountain bikes

As we could get no answer from the Guest house at Colla di Casaglia, we took the path down to Casaglia hoping to find the Posto Tappa, a walkers refuge with beds and kitchen. Luckily we found the keys at the shop where we had a hot drink and bought food to cook for dinner.

The refuge is an old school, nice hot showers, beds and a kitchen all to ourselves, the shop opens at 6am so we shall get breakfast and a hot drink before we set off on another day.

Another days walking in brilliant sunshine and not too many tree’s 🙂

First stop was Monte Falco, the highest mountain in the national park at 1657m,we enjoyed the views.

Then it was on to Monte Falterona where we enjoyed even more views before returning almost to our starting point to carry on with today’s walk.

A nice days walking with some lovely views but when we arrived at Passo Del Muraglione we found the hotel shut, which was very disappointing.

As it was a weekend the cafe was open for all the motorcyclists that seem to love it here,so while we decided on what to do we had a coffee and a very strange kind of sandwich that seemed to be full of meat fat (which neither of us ate)..

motorcyclists at Passo del Muraglione

It was a 3 hour wait for a bus that may or may not turn up or a 2hr walk down into San Godenzo, we decided to walk as it was very noisy with the motor bikes.

After a lovely but very hot walk down into San Godenzo we found a room at Albergo Agnoletti,and they agreed to drive us back up to Passo Del Muraglione in the morning, which was a relief 🙂

As we left the village we bumped into the French Guys enjoying a smoke and a coffee, so we had a chat before setting off on our day 🙂

French walkers

The paths were harder to follow today,but much better sunny weather so we arrived in Camaldoli in good time and enjoyed a look round its 16th century pharmacy,where all kinds of herbal lotions and potions were on sale but I resisted from buying any.

Camaldoli pharmacy

We had a choice of coffee shops too, so picked a random one and enjoyed coffee and biscotti before finding our way back onto the GEA,heading for Poggio Scali which promised a panoramic view and would be a change from all these trees!

The french Guys had set up camp by the time we reached Poggio Scali and they were eager  to show us the views and what a delight they were,our first glimpse of what scenery there was outside the trees.

Poggio Scali

After a short break enjoying the views it was off to La Burraia where thankfully ,we had a very warm welcome at the stunningly positioned Rifugio CAI di Forli.

Rifugio CAI di Forli

We started the day by finding the Campari Fountain a hangover from the 1931 publicity campaign but alas there was no free Campari.

Campari fountain

Then the days walking started off nicely with a walk up to La Verna sanctuary , which we had a wander round before enjoying coffee and cake in the first open cafe to be found 🙂

Easier walking today but just as we started the climb up to Poggio Tre Vescovi the heavens opened and we got caught in an amazing hail/thunder storm turning the path into a running stream,making it a very wet and muddy walk for the rest of the day.

A welcome down hill stretch into Badia Prataglia where we found a room at the so called up market hotel Bosco Verde.

Another tough day with an never ending up hill walk to the ridge but then St Stefano is the lowest point in the walk .

A nice sunny day with the thunder storms just behind or in front of us although we did catch sone rain going up to Eremo La Casella,where we finally met 2 other French walkers doing the GEA.

These walkers were camping so had decided to stay at Eremo , they had a nice warm fire and offered us tea before we set off again by which time the rain had stopped.

Disappointing to find all cafe bars and restaurants that we passed closed and we could get no answers from the hotels so it was a worrying time wondering if we would be sleeping on the streets.

Finally the guest house Da Giovanna answered the phone we booked a room so could really enjoy the 2 hour walk to La Verna

Some pictures of the day are here